Back to its roots: Brioni is dedicated to the creative man who seeks to highlight his individuality with a matching wardrobe.
The Brioni classics are back. Cashmere coats, velvet blazers, corduroy suits. Yet there is something different. A feather is attached to the lapel, the blue shirt is decorated with colourful dots, dark brown military boots accompany the grey double-breasted jacket. It looks as if someone has captured the complexity of the modern era in one truly intense combination. Conservative, yes; contemporary, absolutely. Brioni places great emphasis on the quality of its tailoring, the most fundamental clothing experience, to such an extent that current head designer Nina-Maria Nitsche, a German with years of experience at Maison Margiela, doesn’t tolerate photos of herself.
Under her vision, the Italian gentlemen’s fashion house is returning to its roots after years of experimentation. It was founded in Rome in 1945 by Nazareno Fonticoli, a tailor who cut his teeth on London’s Savile Row, and designer Gaetano Savini. The two opened their business on the elegant Via Barberini. Soon men such as Kirk Douglas and Clark Gable were visiting the boutique to complete their wardrobe – Triton Fountain in their eyes, cashmere on their backs.
Brioni searches for solidarity with the world’s creatives. The man as an individual, his wardrobe as a second skin, representative, luxurious, not asking for excessive comfort. The clothes aren’t recreational, instead focussing on physical feeling and smart appearance in one’s chosen career. Much like the New Sobriety movement of the past, these garments are a celebration of essence, professionalism and light functionalism, for which reason celebrities don’t advertise them on the red carpet. Seasoned gentlemen whose lives take place behind the scenes fill these tweed combinations and herringbone patterns with their rich personalities. Men who can visualise the flexibility of youth, though, who also carry a full life’s experience with them. Who consciously define themselves by what they do. The costumer, the antiques dealer, the football manager. Brioni’s mission is to find their individuality and give it the expression it deserves.